To Begin, a Thank you to knifegrinders for the knowledge and unparalleled skill they bring to the game.
Variable speed 15 to 400 RPM
Mounts Tormek Waterbath wheels, reversing with digital Micro Adjust Rail
Magnetic Digital linear Scales each arm Rail on wheel center,
The blade is down in front of the operator.
Simplify the math.
Thank you, Patrick Good thinking!
Note: the existing Tormek rails have long legs this length is not really needed on the Edge
The edge has been designed to be fairly versatile
Regarding the Veritas miter rest, This is a no brainer
It is marginally useful if you cant adjust the feed while leaving the tool clamped.
Toycen solution: we added a feed mechanism no need to unclamp the tool and lose your angle to take another pass.
Here you can see our standard Feed rest and Tormek bracket mounted at the same time
no need to unmount our feed rests to use the standard work rest
With our smart platen, there is a 1/8 inch layer of 30 durometer closed-cell foam.
This isolates the belt from the machine ground, using our 3M belts static electricity builds up.
This will discharge thru your fingers for a little wake-up jolt if your the ground.
Either you can spray some laundry static guard on the back of the belt
Or you can use Aluminum Tape which is a good replaceable wear surface.
Jeff designed the Belt-Over-Wheel attachment originally for the 8″ Tradesman. The main benefits being that you can change grits (from wheel to belts) without breaking setups, and also save the life of your CBN or diamond grinding wheel. We recently had a customer ask for this set up on the Tradesman Machinist.
Here the BOW attachment is shown on the Tradesman edge 10 inch wheel one end 8 inch other end
Notice the Tormek Bracket on the back of the machine leaving the two from workrests in place
We like this set-up for knife grinding and works great with the Tormek attachments on the belt or wheel.
1) Is there a way to adjust the belt tracking? I am finding that the right side belt is running off centre. In general I would run the belt on centre 95% of the time, but there would be 5% of the time where I would actually run the belt off the platen in order to soften a plunge line near a knife bolster (green box in photo). I tried to loosen and retighten the drive wheel but it didn’t help. I haven’t put an indicator on it but it seems true to me.
2) I am not sure the black support arm for the single side Tormek jig was included. I looked through the boxes twice but I can’t seem to find it. I will have one more look in the morning.
3) Could you please outline the installation and use of the dual-ended tormek jig? What about the holder in red? Or do I remove the machine screws on either end to use it in between both arms when horizontal?
4) How do I use and install the mitre jig?
5) The steel piece (Aluminum) on the end of each arm. A safety guard addition? If I wanted to remove it, take off the belt tensioning knob and then unscrew? Right side guard is a little loose. Tighten using same procedure?
6) The plattens can be reversed and run on either side, correct? The tape that is on there is not meant to be removed either, right?
7) Can you outline exactly what you are doing in your video to deburr? Are you using the foam-backed platten? Just applying a little more pressure, edge trailing so the burr sinks into the foam and gets knocked off by the cupping of the belt?
8) Lastly, the bracket on the body of the machine in red. What is this for and what is the adjustment screw for? Any benefit to using the mitre adjustment screw vs the hex screw aside from being able to turn a knob vs use a hex key?
In picture number one that is a regular tormek bracket I was experimanting with fixturing locations, as you can also. The Edge workstation has mounting holes at strategic locations to facilitate a wide selection of wheel / belt approaches.